Handling the Wax and Lacquer
Some wise words of advice from Annie Sloan
LETTING CHALK PAINT® WAX CURE
After you’ve applied Chalk Paint® Wax, you’ll find that it will become dry to the touch very quickly. At this stage, it is still what you might call ‘soft’. It will start to harden as the solvents in the wax evaporate. This hardening process is known as ‘curing’. Curing can take between 5 and 21 days depending on ambient temperature.
You can use your finished piece straight away, but you may need to treat it with extra care until the wax has cured completely (you might want to use coasters, avoid sharp objects etc). Once cured, a piece of furniture painted with Chalk Paint® and finished with wax will stand up to normal wear and tear.
Chalk Paint® Wax is food-safe and toy-safe when completely cured.
HOW TO CARE FOR A CHALK PAINT® AND WAX FINISH
Generally, wiping lightly with a damp/dry microfibre cloth should be sufficient to clean.
Stubborn marks on waxed pieces can often be removed with a little Clear Chalk Paint® Wax on a cloth, which acts as an eraser. If you choose to use cleaner you will eventually wear away the wax, but if you would prefer to use a mild surface cleaner apply using a cloth and test in an inconspicuous area first. Regular use of cleaning products may require re-waxing over time.
Always use heat mats and coasters to protect your painted and waxed surfaces. Keep away from extreme temperatures or humidity. Like you, your finish prefers a moderate climate!
Waxes dissolve in alcohol, so using it on bars is not advisable.
Avoid aerosol spray polishes as they may contain solvents or silicone that could dissolve the wax.
USING CHALK PAINT® LACQUER
As a guide, one 750ml tin of lacquer will cover 19 square metres (204ft ²), but this will vary according to the absorbency of the material you’re painting. For best results the lacquer should be applied in very thin coats. Results may also vary depending on previous treatment of the surface.
When applying Chalk Paint® Lacquer, bear in mind that it is a ‘penetrating’ finish and can pull tannins or stains from the wood up through the paint. This can be especially noticeable on whites, manifesting as a yellow stain. Always test Chalk Paint® and Lacquer on several areas before you begin your project. If a stain appears, apply a stain blocker directly over the entire surface before painting and lacquering again.
DEALING WITH STAINS COMING THROUGH CHALK PAINT®
If you’re working with new, untreated wood, you’ll need to apply clear shellac (knotting solution) to wood knots and open grains. This will block tannins that can bleed through the paint.
On rare occasions, a stain may bleed through your first coat of paint – this is often from a previous oil-based finish and is most likely to happen on old pieces from the 1930s and 1940s.
If you see a stain bleeding through the paint, apply a coat of stain blocker (or knotting solution) directly over the paint you have already applied. Treat the whole affected surface to avoid any patchiness in the final finish. One or two coats of blocker applied evenly with a cloth pad will block the stain. It dries in minutes, and then you can get on with your painting.
These stains can often be pulled through if Chalk Paint® Lacquer is applied on to Chalk Paint®. If this is the case, do the same steps as above but over the Chalk Paint® Lacquer you’ve already applied.
Chalk Paint® is not recommended for teak or other oily woods. Always test, if in doubt!
TOUCHING UP OR REPAIRING DAMAGE
As with any decorating paint, it’s not advisable to paint over small areas that need a touch up – even if you are working with paint from the same batch. When you apply a first coat of paint to a surface, the rate at which the water is absorbed by the surface (‘wicking’) has an effect on the final colour. Subsequent coats will be absorbed by the paint underneath at a different rate, leading to a subtle shade difference in the finish.
For this reason, where repairs are necessary, it’s advised to paint the entire surface of the affected area, whether this is a section of wall (from corner to corner & top to bottom) or the face of a piece of furniture (for example, a drawer front). There is no need to repaint the entire room or the whole piece of furniture! However, to save time, it’s worth testing by touching up just the small area first. If it looks fine, you can seal and leave. If not, apply as above.